Top 5 Defects found in Galway Property in 2020...
TL;DR: Second hand properties are not without defect. The problems listed are common defects, which can be easily resolved, but there may be a cost associated with same. Septic tank problems are in 9 out of every 10 rural homes. Chimney cracks are common in homes built after 1990. Hairline cracks are common and to be expected in all properties. BER’s can vary and can be inaccurate. If the house is connected to a bored well, only buy it when potable water has been demonstrated.
You are not the only one!
At myPropertySurvey.ie, we inspect a number of different and complex properties each year. Whilst each property is unique, there are common defects found in the vast majority!
We have identified 5 Common Defects that we regularly find in our structural property surveys in Galway, as follows:
Septic Tank Problems
Chimney Cracks
Hairline cracking
BER Variances
Water Supply Defects
Some problems can be a headache, but they are not insurmountable. In our Structural Report we try to summarise the cost of repair for the purchaser, which can also help to inform price negotiations.
1. Septic Tank Problems:
Generally speaking, rural houses in Ireland have either a “Septic Tank & Percolation Area” or a “Proprietary Treatment System”. Nothing is more infuriating than walking around a site and having difficulty finding even the basic parts of a septic tank system! From missing AJ’s, defective percolation areas and failing systems, we have seen it all! Unfortunately, 9 out of every 10 septic tank systems that we inspect have defects!
Typical configuration of a domestic septic tank system in Galway…
Here are the things that make us mad about Septic Tanks (excuse the sarcasm..!):
Not enough AJ’s: So, the sewer waste magically appears at the septic tank. We don’t know how it got there. No access junctions, no chambers and loads of hidden pipe bends! Gravity is a mighty thing.
AJ’s and inspection chambers are necessary at every pipe bend and at regular intervals over long pipe runs for servicing/rodding.
No distribution box: The wastewater leaves the septic tank, bon voyage! Where it goes, nobody knows…except the fish and downstream ecology in our rivers and streams.
A distribution box is necessary to evenly distribute wastewater to separate percolation pipes.
System is misconfigured: No, it is not appropriate to divert untreated kitchen waste to a separate soakpit. It is not appropriate to pipe a percolation area/soakpit to a drain/stream. It doesn’t matter how long you claim it has been “working”, even if that was the way your Father always did it.
SR6 Regulations since 1991 state that septic tanks treat all domestic sewage in a single system. Only rainwater is diverted to on-site soakpits.
Where is the percolation area?: Doesn’t really matter, it can’t be seen anyway…
Percolation areas are fundamental filtration devices necessary to help the breakdown of liquid waste before it enters the watertable. The percolation pipes should be accessible and have vents at each end. It is also advisable to install a Grease Trap onto the kitchen sink waste to prevent grease from hardening in the percolation area and blocking the system.
Noisy Plant: Sure you may as well turn off the aerator or pump, it is wasting electricity. Never mind the red light, it has been on for ages!
Treatment plants are reliant on devices such as aerators and pumps. If these are noisy, it may mean that there is a problem. Never ignore warning lights, this will lead to long-term system damage and ultimately may require replacement.
When we inspect a property, we look for visual evidence of failures. Odours are also common with septic tanks, but a persistent pungent odour will indicate stagnant waste and potential failure. Odour in the garden, away from the tank, suggests that the percolation area is blocked. We also lift all accessible access chambers around the house to check for blockages.
Advice to the Purchaser: Consider providing a grease trap in the system. Make sure the system is registered. Remember, 9 out of every 10 systems we inspect are failing in some way, so it is not just your property!
Advice to the Vendor: Register your septic tank. Flush the manholes and de-sludge the system. Make sure there are enough access chambers. Have the private treatment unit serviced. Make sure the percolation area is clearly visible and accessible. Renew defective plant.
2. Chimney Cracks:
Whatever it is, we have noted that a lot of properties built since the 1990’s tend to have hairline cracks in their chimneys, especially in the attic. Here is a list of common issues:
Hairline Cracks: Commonly, we see horizontal cracks at attic level. These are usually cracks in the mortar bed. Some of the cracks are not significant, others are more serious. If a chimney has the support of a party wall, it is often easier to deal with these cracks. If the chimney is independent, then re-building is generally the only cure.
Stack Moisture: Moisture ingress from defective lead is an easy to spot problem, as there is likely to be fabric damage. However, since the popular introduction of stoves in older houses, moisture ingress from the stack has become a common problem. Chimneys with stoves tend to be cooler. Hence, stack moisture has less of an opportunity to evaporate. Chimneys with stoves should have a proprietary flue liner, a cowl and the cap should be sealed. Defective rendering should also be renewed. Lead trays should also be provided at the roof junction, but in many cases these were never provided, hence there is a direct path for moisture ingress.
What’s the Craic? - Typical hairline chimney crack in a Galway Attic
Advice to the Purchaser: Sealed stoves are energy efficient and advised, but they must be installed correctly i.e. with a proprietary flue lining system. Hairline cracks in stacks at attic level are unfortunately a common occurrence. They can be repaired, but this comes at a cost. Also, avoid putting an aerial on the stack, this can act as a lever and exacerbate cracks.
Advice to the Vendor: Inspect the stack before you sell. The repair is more than likely covered under your house insurance. Otherwise, we usually include a repair cost in our reports and advise purchasers to have this cost deducted from the house price! Remove all aerials from the stack. Repair flashings and clean the chimney.
3. Hairline Cracking:
We use a standardised assessment system for all cracks. They are measured and categorised in accordance with their width. Most houses have some form of hairline cracking, very few have major structural failings. We only inspected 3 properties in 2020 that had structural issues. Generally, the following is noted:
Minor Cracks (Category 0 or 1): These are cracks under 1mm. These are common is most properties. To the point that if we don’t see these cracks, then we get worried! Typically they are outside under windows, along the plinth and hare either horizontal or vertical. They can be easily explained.
Cracks to watch (Category 2): These are 1-5mm. Usually occur after changes in the property (knocking a wall, doing other work). They are unlikely to get worse and may need simple repair.
Structural Cracks (Category 3 or 4): Usually 5-25mm. Typically occur when there has been illogical intervention or vibrations. These require fundamental repair and making good.
Structural Damage (category 5): These are cracks >25mm. At this stage you will be debating the quality of the structure and it may be more cost effective to knock and re-build! ouch!
Trouble Ahead! A Category 3-4 crack… extension falling away from the original house!
Advice to the Purchaser: Hairline cracks are to be excepted. To the point, if we don’t see them, then we are even more concerned! Hairline issues are common and can be easily treated. 99% of houses have such cracks.
Advice to the Vendor: Inspect your property. Have large cracks repaired before you sell. It may be a simple house insurance issue. Category 2-3 cracks are off-putting for any vendor and should be dealt with accordingly. Where we encounter category 4+ we generally advise the purchaser to walk away.
4. BER Variances:
Whilst we generally welcome the Building Energy Rating (BER) assessment of a home, we have discovered many instances of where there are huge variances in rated properties.
In particular, we recently inspected 3 properties that had a BER of “B2”. One of the properties had an undersized oil boiler (not condensing) and was poorly insulated. The second had a heat pump and solar panels in a poorly insulated dwelling. Surprisingly, the third property was an air-sealed home with a heat pump and heat recovery ventilation (HRV).
In all three properties, the BER rating of “B2” was not a comparable variable. It was my opinion that the rating was misrepresented in 2 of the dwellings. Hence, BER ratings are a guide, but actual energy performance may differ.
Advice to the Purchaser: BER reports are a guide only. The actual experience in real life may differ depending on the comfort level you require and the nature of occupancy of the house.
Advice to the Vendor: Have an up-to-date BER assessment undertaken by a competent and reputable BER Assessor. Inflated ratings reflect badly on a property. I always make a comparison with insulation levels in a home and comment on the Energy Rating.
5. Water Supply Defects:
Potable water is essential in any home. However, properties that have their own supply on site (via a bored well) are susceptible to contamination. Sources of contamination can be from the on-site septic tank, a proliferation of septic tanks in the area or agricultural land spreading in close proximity. Without potable water, the property is useless.
When inspecting a rural home connected to a well, I expect to see a first class water filtration system, including UV filtration. The system should be regularly serviced. The treated water should have a bacteriological test report regularly undertaken.
If you have young children, potable water is a fundamental basic necessity (next is WiFi!). If the Vendor is not willing to undertake such testing, then I have no difficulty in recommending that a purchaser walks away.
Advice to the Purchaser: Do not buy a house connected to a bored well if the water has not been tested and the system is not suitable.
Advice to the Vendor: Get the water tested. Have the system regularly serviced and all filters cleaned. Provide certification of same.
